(PDF) What Is "Chinese" Food? Historicizing the Concept of …
When discussing Chinese food in the People's Republic of China, the concept of culinary regionalism appears everywhere. Scholarly and popular accounts alike systematically list the same four (eight, ten, or twelve) "great" regional cuisines (sidacaixi, badacaixi, etc.), asserting that the designation of the original four great regional cuisines (Lu fromShandong Province, Yue …